How to work and treat epoxy!

WestSystems answer

More opinions from readers of the Sailingworld Messageboard

Charging fees while at anchor?

I dropped the question into the SAILINGWORLD and like its interesting Messageboard. My question was "How to work with an epoxy boat"

WESTSYSTEM answered very quickly with GOOD NEWS!!

"Dear sir, thank you for your email. If the hull is epoxy/glass composite then theres no need to recoat unless there is damage to the epoxy coating or if there are signs of moisture ingress. In this case it may be advisable to consider applying WEST SYSTEM epoxy as a barrier coating, but only if there is a problem with the integrity of the coating or if the structure .the use of a gelcoat is not necesarry as the hull is probably painted with a two part paint system.Trust this information meets your requirements and if you have any further questions please do contact us.

regards,

Ian Oliver

Posted by Jeff H on June 11, 1998 at 07:03:24:

In Reply to: It is an epoxy boat posted by Frank on June 11, 1998 at 04:05:57:

Thank you for clearing that up. If you are talking about working on an epoxy boat below the water line I would suggest that you stick with WEST System or System 3 epoxy products for anyglass work and follow that up with a system of bottom painting products. WEST System provides great support and I believe they have a web site. As a side note, balsa coring was used as early as 1965 Pearsons. J-boats have also used balsa core since they started in 1975 or 76. Good luck,

Jeff wrote as well:

" The guys who are talking about fairing the hull with epoxy fillers, using an epoxy based or urathane sanding primer and then coming over top with a linear urathane are right for a topside re-paint are giving you good advise it the topsides need to be repainted. Watching for additional info, regards,

Jeff

another opinion

Posted by Roy Miles on June 10, 1998 at 12:51:18:

In Reply to: How do you treat a fibre glass hull contructed with epoxy resin? posted by Frank on June 10, 1998 at 04:44:20:

Frank, I'm a bit confused by your question. Let me repeat it to see if I'm getting it. You say your boat is entirely epoxy resin, or do you mean fiberglass AND epoxy resin? Second, why are you considering new gelcoat on top of epoxy? Besides being completely incompatible, is there some cosmetic or structural reason? You mention "too many sanding jobs", is this causing your concern?

If the surface coating has gone on for twenty years, I doubt it is straight epoxy on the surface. Even with colorants added to the resin, ultraviolet light would have caused an epoxy surface to "chalk" by now. Or is this the problem you're alluding to? If so, sand and prep the surface, apply one of the linear polyurethane systems (Sterling, Awlgrip, etc.) and you'll have a like-new surface again.If you are referring to below-water cosmetic or structural problems caused by too much sanding at haulouts, repair with epoxy resin (and 'glass, if needed), cover with a barrier coat (same brand as bottom paint) to ensure strong adhesion, and go sailing. If, in fact, you have a polyester hull, don't waste any time with gelcoats ever again. New boat builders are switching to linear polyurethane finishes on their high-end models because they want the boats to look good for the longest period possible, reflecting well on the manufacturer. To treat an epoxy surface well, keep it covered with paint to avoid ultraviolet breakdown. Use an LP paint and you cut down the repainting cycles to once every seven to ten years. If you damage the hull (smashing into docks, rocks, etc.), repair with epoxy, get some LP on the patch, and get back to sailing. Good luck.

Posted by Roy Miles on June 10, 1998 at 20:24:03:

In Reply to: Thanks Roy, posted by Frank on June 10, 1998 at 16:37:21:

Frank, If the hull above water line looks perfect, that's great. It gives you some time to get to know it better before doing anything to it. I still suspect it has been painted with LP if it looksuniformly glossy (my assumption being that it's not heavily waxed). If it were polyester gelcoat, heavily waxed to give it gloss, you STILL don't have a problem - just keep it waxed every six months in the sunlight of Turkey. Rub your hand heavily across several flat surfaces that appear dull (if there are any). "Chalking" means a residue on your hand similar to wiping the blackboard in school. It means that the plastic polymer (tangled up chains of plastic molecules) is beginning to break up due to the energy of ultraviolet light. A microscope would show teeny teeny crazing, a network of small canyons where the chains had begun to widen the cracks. The chalking is the stuff that is more loosely adhering. If this is the case, again, no big deal, it's just a matter of applying lberal amounts of elbow grease and fancy paint products to bring it back to even better than new. Forget more epoxy resin UNLESS there are deep scrapes or other damage. YES, it does matter what glass you use. Pretty much any of the ordinary cloth types EXCEPT roving or mat will work great. The two mentioned have a coating that requires the styrene of polyester resin to dissolve. You can use straight WEST (or other) resin, mixed with fillers to give the putty-likebody needed for small cosmetic repairs.Today's modern paints are actually systems, designed to work together to achieve a lasting effect. Unless you know a bit about their relative compatibilities, stick with ONE BRAND all the way from primers (and other specialty prep coats) through the finish coats of gloss enamel. I'm not sure what brands are available in Turkey. If you have any questions about relative meritsof one over another, post them here and surely someone will have an opinion or three to share. As to bottom paints, ask locally what seems to work longest for your locale. The warmth and salinity of the Med, as well as the STRONG sunlight, are all going to be factors that affect your success and paint longevity. Finally, there is a kind of marginal human being that exists worldwide who will prey on the folks searching for good information. Listen to these folks, then compare their stories with those of others. Ask around for folks who have heeded your potential guru's words and have found true enlightenment. Be extremely wary of those who tell you that there is an IMMEDIATE need to take their advice and pay cash upfront. Especially, DON'T ACCEPT ANY KOOL-AID FROM THESE FOLKS. Good luck and stay in contact.

More News

Posted by Bill Taylor on June 10, 1998 at 20:14:45:

June 4th is a red letter day. The Ontario Boating Forum challenged the Ontario Government over charging to anchor within Massasauga Park. The courts ruled that anchoring is a part ofnavigation and as such a fee to do so cannot be collected. Fees will still be charged should you tie to the shore or raft from a boat that is so tied. But, once again the wonderful Moon River

Area, that is the area on Georgian Bay from Twelve Mile Bay in the south to the southern route to Parry Sound. The situation is stable for 98, but the province have the right to appeal and

must do so within 30 days. Historically, in Canada, appeals seem to follow the original decision. The government will have to find another way to interfer with our RIGHT TO NAVIGATE.

Check out the OBF website at www.obf.on.ca.